Understanding Jewellery by David Bennett and Daniella Mascetti.

Understanding Jewellery by David Bennett and Daniella Mascetti, published by Antique Collectors' Club Ltd..

To put things simply this book’s title is nothing if not apt as it explains everything to do with jewellery. The book starts off with a chapter on gemstones describing the difference between precious and semi-precious gemstones used in the various designs that are then discussed in the book. It is immediately followed by four Appendices also dedicated to gems and stones and their qualities such as light refraction and reflection, their grading on the Mohs scale, their treatment and enhancement and a separate appendix discussing pastes and composite stones.

The following chapters are then split up into increments of age with the first one encompassing from the late 18^th century to 1820. Every chapter following covers 20 years each from 1820 onwards. For the purposes of the literature review I have read Chapter 7: From 1920 to 1940, Chapter 8: The 1940s and the Post-War Years, & Chapter 9: From 1960 to 1980.

Much like the other chapters which I will not mention in this blog, this section of the book discusses the major styles that influenced design throughout the eras. The authors also mention pieces that either stopped being designed or were invented during those times such as the ending of parures or the amalgamation of female wristwatches into the modern-day suite. The popularity of particular metals and gemstones during the years covered are mentioned in reference to the styles in rising fashions. The fashion of the jewellery itself is also changed by the discovery of new materials continuously happening throughout the years as well as the cultures of the buyers themselves such as the Indian Maharanis and Middle Eastern Sheiks.

Helpful to my research is how the authors distinguish between the work of one designer or house and another. This is helped with the use of illustrations in plentiful quantity in each chapter and cross-referencing of said illustrations within the text itself. In line with this, they also mention designers that became popular during a particular time such as David Webb in the 1970s as well as landmark designs created by particular houses which then might have been copied or adapted by others.

References

Bennett, D. & Mascetti, D., 2003. Understanding Jewellery. 3rd ed. Suffolk: Antique Collectors' Club Ltd..